An unforgettable journey through New Zealand’s stunning landscapes (Dec 2024)
For several years I had been dreaming of taking a trip to New Zealand’s South Island to enjoy winding roads, breathtaking coastlines, and world-class food and wine. Ten years earlier, we’d taken our children on a 9 day tour of the North Island, but I’d never visited the South Island before.
So in early December 2024, hubby and I embarked on a 9 day/ 8 night self-drive adventure filled with natural wonders and culinary delights. When planning our trip, I soon realised 9 days would not be nearly enough time to see all the South Island has to offer and we’d have to effectively cut the island in half, and plan a return for another time to do the other part. So many places to see, such little time!
Here’s how our South Island road trip unfolded.
Day 1: Christchurch to Blenheim – Coastal Cruising
We flew into Christchurch on a partly sunny Saturday, arriving mid-afternoon, and grabbed our hire car from Ace Rental Cars near the airport which I’d booked using a discount site: Holiday Autos. We hit the road following my GPS navigator in my iphone. The 4 hour drive up the North East coast to Blenheim took us through some seriously scenic stretches. We stopped a couple of times to take photos, with a memorable stop at the Kaikoura Peninsula lookout for sweeping ocean views and a cheeky spot of seal watching nearby. Being December, there were plenty of daylight hours to enable us to enjoy the views until we reached our destination.
By evening, just as darkness hit, we’d arrived at the lovely Hotel d’Urville in Blenheim, a former Public Trust Building completed in 1923, and our base for two nights in the heart of Marlborough. After checking in, our first night kicked off with cocktails in the stylish hotel bar, which unfortunately said they were closing early around 9.30pm (weird for a Saturday night) so we walked across the road to the gastro pub to see if we could get some food. Fortunately, they had a bar menu with some hot food and snacks, so we stayed there a while – a perfect way to ease into holiday mode.
Day 2: Sipping and Savouring in Marlborough
We left the hotel on foot in search of coffee, finding Ritual Cafe around the corner, which seemed to be the only place open. They were run off their feet and after waiting ages for a coffee, we hopped in the car to venture out. Marlborough is famous for its wines, so we couldn’t resist a day of vineyard hopping. However, being a bit too early for wine and lunch, we first stopped in Fenwick, a nearby town, and found a cafe called Phoenix, where we had another coffee to kill some time. The weather looked threatening and we hoped it would clear up as we sat on their deck watching the world slowly go by.
Lunch was booked at Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen, a highlight, as we enjoyed a delicious sharing platter, a glass of wine and views through the vines. It was a shame I was driving and couldn’t enjoy another glass. We browsed their adjacent art gallery, then drove across to Cloudy Bay vineyard. There, we indulged in a relaxed tasting of their impressive wines with a friendly, knowledgeable host. We followed this experience with a sweet treat at Makana Chocolate Factory, where we watched them making some choccies and picked up some gifts to take home. That night, we tried an Indian restaurant back in Blenheim; unfortunately, my English hubbie thought it wasn’t spicy enough and said it was a bit of a letdown! It was a shame to have this disappointing ending after such a lovely day of delicious indulgence.
Day 3: Across to the West – Pies, Lighthouses, and Pancake Rocks
We checked out and hit the road heading west across the country towards the wild West Coast, soaking in gorgeous scenery all the way to Westport. After a wander through town checking out the art deco buildings, lunch was a classic Kiwi pie at the West Coast Pie Company-delicious!
Next, we drove down the coast road and stopped at Cape Foulwind to stretch our legs with a walk to the lighthouse and a peek at the seal colony. We then pushed on to Punakaiki, where the famous Pancake Rocks and Blowholes put on a real show. Our overnight stop was booked at Scenic Hotel Punakaiki, using Qantas points so was effectively free! Here we had a lovely spacious room with a verandah and ocean view. There was also a restaurant offering premium dining, but we opted for a relaxed, low key dinner at the nearby tavern down the road, followed by a walk along the beach, which was a great choice to cap off a big day.
Day 4: Hokitika’s Natural Wonders
The next morning, we made our way further south, a short one hour drive to Hokitika which would be our base for the next 2 nights. Too early to check into our hotel, we drove straight to the Treetop Walkway for a stroll in the canopy offering unique views and testing my courage, as I discovered I was afraid of heights. There was no way I was going to try their zipline, especially after watching the other brave people flying past.
Then we headed back into Hokitika town for a light bite to eat for lunch and a little wander around some of their shops. We stopped in at a glass workshop and watch the expert worker manoeuvring the hot glass into various shapes, and I bought some souvenirs, hoping I’d get them back to Australia in one piece. Next we headed back out and dialled up the adventure a notch unexpectedly with a hair-raising drive down a narrow, winding dirt road to Dorothy Falls-worth it for the lush forest and cascading water, which we had all to ourselves. We finished with another, less stressful drive to Hokitika Gorge, where we took a long walk to marvel at the stunning blue water.
That evening, we settled into our digs at the Beachfront Hotel Hokitika, then enjoyed a casual stroll on the beach, checking out all the driftwood that the choppy seas had pushed onto the sand. I read somewhere that the seas in this part are so violent they have caused many shipwrecks. We headed to the hotel restaurant for some dinner and cocktails, before wrapping up our evening with another short stroll on the beach to watch a magical sunset over the Tasman.
Day 5: Glaciers and Glow Worms
We kicked off the day skipping breakfast and making our way towards the icy wonders of Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. The long scenic drive was dotted with lush rainforest and dramatic mountain backdrops, making it impossible not to stop for photos along the way.
At Franz Josef village, we had some lunch and enquired about booking a helicopter trip to see the glaciers but the weather didn’t play ball so none of the heli tours were flying – gutted! We made do with a leisurely 30 minute walk to the glacier viewpoint, soaking in the scenery of nearby waterfalls and the raw, rugged beauty and the chilly air rolling off the ice glacier in the distance.
On our return to Hokitika, we stopped in at Ross and its historic goldfields area for a quick look around, then enjoyed a yummy dinner at the pub across from our hotel. As night fell, our adventure took a magical touch with a glow worm walk- located on the State Highway 6 roadside at the northern town entrance, a 50 metre track leads to Glow Worm Dell, a 5 minute walk wandering through a little forest in darkness, where we were treated to thousands of tiny blue-green lights twinkling overhead, capping off an unforgettable day in an enchanting way, before returning to our comfy base in Hokitika for some well-earned rest.
Day 6: The Scenic Route Back to Christchurch
This leg of our road trip saw us tackling a 3-hour, 247 km drive back to Christchurch. The first stop was the impressive Otira Viaduct lookout, at Arthur’s Pass, where we soaked in the sweeping mountain views and spotted a kea – a mischievous, large alpine parrot, which took a liking to the rubber trims on our car.
Continuing on, we rolled further through Arthur’s Pass, hoping for a decent bite to eat, but couldn’t find anywhere tempting -so we pressed on, snacks in the car doing the trick. Next up was the Kura Tawhiti Conservation Area (Castle Hill), where the giant limestone boulders made for epic photos and a good stretch of the legs. There is a myth that Lord of the Rings was filmed here, but it actually wasn’t, it just looks similar. We also made a quick stop at the Porters Pass viewpoint, snapping a few more shots of the stunning landscape and hunting for patches of colourful lupins along the roadside. There are so many places to stop for photos, the journey took longer than we thought!
By late afternoon, we arrived in Christchurch and checked into the Novotel Hotel at Cathedral Square where we’d be staying for our final 3 nights. Keen to explore Christchurch, we wandered around the corner to New Regent Street for a drink, revelling in the lively atmosphere and pretty line of stores, cafes and bars. Feeling hungry, we ventured to a nearby classic local pub “The Victoria”, opposite the Victoria Square gardens, where we tucked into a hearty dinner and indulged in more drinks and cocktails than we should have. We wobbled our way back to the hotel taking a slight detour back down New Regent Street to see it illuminated in colourful lights, and I simply had to stop for some decadent waffles at Waffle Haus, before heading back to the hotel for a well-earned rest.
Day 7: Exploring Christchurch
We decided to spend our day in Christchurch soaking up the city’s vibe and making the most of our time.
I kicked things off with an early stroll to the office for a quick coffee catch-up with some work colleagues, enjoying a bit of sightseeing on the way. The walk took me past the iconic old cathedral, the poignant Bridge of Remembrance, and down the bustling high street lined with shops-perfect for a spot of window shopping before meeting up with Steve back at our hotel.
Together, we drove up to Heathcote, a little east of the city, for a scenic gondola ride, taking in panoramic views over Christchurch and the surrounding hills and bays. It wasn’t busy at all, with no queues to buy tickets. After a leisurely walk at the top, and spending some money in their gift shop, we made our way back down the summit and then took a drive around the area to see some more magnificent views.
In the late afternoon, I’d booked an early dinner aboard the Tramway Restaurant. As they served us and the other passengers a top-notch three-course meal with accompanying wine while the tram did a few loops of the city, we both remarked how glad we were to have splurged on this experience – seriously, can’t recommend this enough if you’re after something a bit special! Though, a word of advice, book in advance, especially if you want the later dinner service.
With the evening still young, we decided to keep the adventure going and wandered through the city in search of a cosy spot for a drink. We stumbled upon Mischief, a quirky little wine outlet tucked inside the lively Riverside Market food court, and spent a relaxed hour sampling some local drops before calling it a night. All in all, it was a perfect day in Christchurch.
Day 8: Akaroa Adventure and Cruising with Dolphins
We set off on a picturesque day trip to Akaroa, a charming village nestled on the Banks Peninsula. The hour and a half drive alone was a treat, with rolling hills and lovely views that made every kilometre worthwhile. We made a brief stop at Little River for a bathroom break and browsed their charming, rustic store and art gallery, then continued toward Akaroa, enjoying more scenery along the way. When we arrived, it seemed quite busy, however we found somewhere to park and then wandered through the quaint streets lined with historic French-inspired buildings, soaking up the unique character of this former fishing village. The highlight was a harbour cruise in the early afternoon, (no need to book ahead) where we learned about Akaroa’s fascinating history and spotted playful dolphins, curious seals, and a variety of local wildlife in their natural habitat. The weather was perfect, and the water was a gorgeous aqua blue, and so flat I didn’t even get seasick when we went outside the heads into the Pacific. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for lunch in one of their many cafes and restaurants as our boat trip was during the lunch period, but we satisfied our hunger with a portion of hot chips from a nearby food van while we’d waited for our cruise.
On our way back to Christchurch, we made a short stop at Barry’s Bay Cheese, sampling an array of local cheeses – definitely a must for any foodie! That evening, for our final night in Christchurch, we discovered Little High Eatery, a buzzing upmarket food court offering a diverse range of cuisines, Steve enjoying a burger, while I found a delicious Asian curry. After a satisfying meal, we capped off the night with cocktails at OGB Bar, a beautifully restored Speak Easy style bar set in a stunning heritage building in Cathedral Square, making for a memorable end to our adventure-filled day.
Day 9: Farewell Christchurch and a Grand Finale
On our last day, we treated ourselves to a big breakfast at the cosy Library Café just around the corner from our hotel. Afterwards, we visited Quake City, Christchurch’s earthquake museum, only a couple of blocks away, which offered a moving and insightful look at the city’s resilience and recovery.
As we returned our hire car and headed to the airport, we received an unexpected and exciting message—our request for a Business class upgrade had been approved!
The flight back to Sydney was the perfect finish: spacious comfort, delicious food, and a sense of celebration as we reflected on an unforgettable trip.
My tips:
- Booking ahead – While there are many places you can visit spontaneously, there are a couple of popular places which are advisable to book in advance, especially if you plan to be there on a weekend. The restaurant at Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen in Marlborough was one place I was glad to have booked; the other was the Tramway Restaurant in Christchurch, which I’d booked the day before and was only able to secure an early 5pm dinner sitting.
- Self-drive – If you are travelling in warmer months, I recommend a self-drive holiday, rather than a guided coach tour. That way, you will have flexibility to see more places, spending as much time as you like in each place without feeling rushed. There are plenty of online options with route suggestions and recommendations of places to see (blog posts, Tripadvisor, NZ Tourism sites, etc), plus, NZ roads are easy to navigate and traffic-free, even in the cities. Peak holiday periods and wintertime may be different and you might need snow tyres and chains in some areas.
- Factor in more driving time – When your GPS tells you how long a route will take, you should allow extra time, as you will definitely want to stop along the way for lots of photos and this will slow you down.